My dear amigo Randy—the sign-painting wild-man from New Mexico, my father in some circles—is back in Phuket. The whiskey is ready. Good stories about sailing to Oman, motorcycling madness in Cambodia, he’s looking for another boat—hopefully to Indonesia this year. Randy is drinking his Thai whiskey on the rocks, as usual. We’ll see where this goes.
And it went…somewhere, that’s for sure; we got There. Eventually Randy was ejected from the local late-night live-music venue, for taking Christmas decorations from the rafters and draping them over his shoulders, and then disrespecting the staff something mighty…Aih-ya! There was scotch, a couple beers at a jazz club, then a liter of Johnny Walker—during which things got silly—which mi compadre only made it half through. I stayed and finished the Red Label, politely bidding Randy adieu, and left with the staff after closing, having been fed tasty complimentary rice porridge.
Ah, well, whatever. I’d reckon you don’t care much about a little one-nighter me and Big Papi put on, nor should you. So we’ll go on with Now and Today. Let’s see how far this goes in a good spicy Thai meal, three kilos of mangosteens, and three Singhas, for washing down.
Today was a Good Day. It began, as most of the past week, with me rising after noon. Bacon and eggs and tomatoes and toast and good tea started things right again. And a paper to keep current, always. Speaking of…
The Bangkok Post tells me that flights through Suvarnabhumi (the main airport) are, “surging during the Lunar New Year holiday period.” up 23% year-on-year, in spite of the recent terror alert issued by the American embassy, and the murky arrest plot—he says it’s all a set-up by Israeli intelligence—of a Hezbollah-linked Lebanese man, and one big ass stockpile of fertilizer.
Strange rumblings, unanswered questions, stone-faced men with dark glasses and identical suits…lots of loose ends, no one saying too much.
“What’s going on?” Don’t think anyone is totally sure…
And then another business section story right nearby, titled “No more low season in Phuket”. Indeed, my friend, indeed. “China, India, Russia…flock here.”
Absolutely eye-popping year-over-year statistics: Mainland Chinese +103% to nearly 150,000, Russians +109%, 150K as well…overtaken Australians, who had been the largest visiting nationality since 2005. Yes, yes, things are changing on this here island; the atmosphere has taken a noticeable shift.
This drift has led to a perceptible change in tone of this place. It’s like the difference between a Russian and Australian party—both will be boozy, yes; but there always seems to be a mildly threatening undercurrent bisecting a Russian social shindig, ominous quiet and a heavy sense of “who’s got the power”…whereas the Aussies are just loud, drunk, and conspicuous. You could say the Russos are more polite–and in a way they are–but it feels enforced and vaguely sinister.
Ah, it’s a crazy world, isn’t it…Good People eat shit and get trampled, while occasional kleptocrats like Vlad Putin run wild and get rich, crapping-on and degrading all standing in their way, or even mild nuisances. No question of where the power lies…
But that’s a tale for another day…and I’ll not demean Russians any more, as plenty of them are Good People. Different, that’s for sure.
And then the Post takes us to the US, where our Federal Reserve is about to take a more “transparent” turn, giving interest rate guidance forecasts. Awkward men shuffling in their dark suits, making murky decisions to keep it all humming along, uncomfortably delivered press releases—a band of nervous tension stretching through.
When will it snap or slack?—does anyone know?
Do you think more than 10% of the American population has any real idea what the Federal Reserve is, does, and where it’s power derives from? Do you?—I highly doubt it. Ron Paul—kooky, sure…at least he thinks about things; more of the same silence from sheepish masses.
And then, the real goodness in there—the wild story of Kim Dotcom, Internet file-sharing (or stealing, depending on your point of view) maverick, a German living in New Zealand making, allegedly, $115,000 a day in 2010, from supposedly illegal copyright infringement. Massive parties, yachts, drugs, a long extradition fight beginning. Sounds like a 1980s Miami tale—terabytes and terabytes of 1s and 0s instead of nose-candy.
Weird?—why yes. Mr. Dotcom turned pro, on a big sorta scale, years ago. Wowness.
So yes, back to The Day: After getting a proper dose of The State of Things, it was time to head off and catch up with friends, have another good meal, and get a swim and workout before dark.
My people were there, as they always are, slowly looking after the whims and desires of beach-going tourists. I brought some firecrackers for Chinese New Year—their family has some Yunnan blood—and they set them off in front of their little temple, while I enjoyed a post-workout seafood curry platter, and the local naked fat baby chucked my oval about in the sand.
It was nice. The sunset over Kata Noi was particularly brilliant this day.
Speaking of those firecrackers…I was scolded by the stout, shirtless Thai-nese man whose shop I patronized—he was pissed, or worried—for my barely-swinging, though unwieldy-looking, satchel. After three minutes of browsing in total silence he erupted with a stream of off-Thai jabbering, saying something I didn’t understand, but which was clearly of importance. His son explained that the bag worried him.
Precipitously perched gimcracks everywhere, one red box on another red box on another red box on another red box on…And such narrow little aisles. No room for even the slenderest fa-rang with a backpack to turn around in. No harm, no foul, right?
And then what, eh? Well, things continued lazily post-sundown. A bit of shopping, some biking around, general leisure. Followed by a truly phenomenal foot massage—about $9 US—one hour of heaven on the toes, rubbing and grinding and pulling just right, courtesy of a happy-to-please middle-aged Thai lady. And a spot of William Faulkner as accompaniment—ah, yes.
Back to my people, this time at home—a massive compound of one-story houses, a dozen-ish dotting a hillside dirt path, four generations a short stumble apart.
What I would have noted about that scene, if the notebook had made the journey:
(This place is beautiful. Tee-nee su-ay mak. These are Good People. Jai-dee, jai-dee. It is different and beautiful, the place is softly colorful everywhere and the air is fresh, and All is Good, at least Right Now. Ja-kee is swaying and dancing–cigarette in one hand, whiskey & soda in the other–while he mumbles to the Thai radio music.
They don’t play cards around these parts, only gamble on soccer, and there are no matches tonight. Bird cages, Chinese New Year flags, pictures of the boys during their monk-time—so many charming little details in every nook and cranny. I am lightly mocked but they always tolerate my presence, and we crack jokes at one another for no reason at all. Strange and quietly awkward at times, of course, but Good Fun and Happiness. Good People, no doubt.
Laos or Thai? Fa-rang, of course. Ti-en returns with food, then Daeng’s son stops by. The young one doesn’t drink whiskey. “Phom mai gin lao…”
Waving that massive meat cleaver knife around would be a bad idea right now…but it looks so shiny and lonely.)
And now back to the On On, peaceful quiet all around. My Irish buddy Gavin—a good bloke, if a bit jangled—stops in with supplies. Getting’ wild, runnin’ amok…? Nope, not tonight, polite conversation—a sound and respectable thing.
“So what is it we should do with this awful mess?”
“Ah, well, I suppose there’s not much we can…Be a good person and be happy. Find a nearly deserted tropical island and making nice with the local Big Man, get a Good Wife and raise polite babies. Or just be a good person and be happy.”
“Some people aren’t so fortunate. They end up raped, robbed, beaten, or some combination of the three. Or butt-fucked by The Man.”
“But not us, not tonight.”
A busload of Chinese rocks past; where they’re headed at 3 AM I’ve no idea. The East is rising.
Yes, it has been a good day.
Bangkok on tomorrow’s night bus, Krung-Thep for rugby training, then Laos the day after that—Vientiane 10s on the weekend. Oh Happy Day!
Words cannot express how excited I am for rugby, so I’ll not much try. After seven months without playing, the idea of actually getting out there and doing rugby this weekend has me so excited I might poop myself at any moment. Goddammnit rugby is grand.
Play On,
RugbyJoe