“I can’t say I’m proud of all of the things that I’ve done, but I can say I’ve never intentionally hurt anyone.” -Waylon Jennings
And that’s one helluva better description of recent happenings than I myself can muster, in original individual thoughts, or coupled with a catchy tune, for that matter. Wild Fun. Crazy Rampaging. Crippled mess.
Another slog on an airplane, two third-world bike accidents, and a few nearly human days roaming around familiar places reacquainting with the friendly locals…and shitloads of well-deserved stares. Oh my, oh my, it’s been a trip.
It’s finally Time. Time to jump back on the wagon, get Right, sort things for myself and tell a colorful travel story…and rugby’ll get in there, of course. Good gracious, it’s been a long and miserable time without proper lingual expression. Endless, miserable fifteen-hour days on the tractor, feeding the world. Twenty-seven million bread-loaves worth of wheat, no bullshit. Doing the hard yards to satiate your hunger. Your welcome.
As it stands, I’m a living monument to Bad Crazy and running amok. Every human—Thai, tourist, some middling combination of being—who has laid eyes upon me the past three days has done a double take. And I don’t blame them, not at all, not even a little bit. Shambles.
My left eye is blackened, eight stitches neatly cross the brow, skid marks adorn a fair chunk of my left arm, random bits of flesh are missing all over this body, my feet look like they took a shotgun blast and, just to top it off, my left front tooth and it’s next door neighbor are severely chipped, leaving a significant hole in my smile; I am a sight for sore eyes, indeed. Another dumb farang, a poor boob who’s pushed his luck too far, gone too fast, and now has the body blotches to prove it. Ah, well, mai pen rai. Fuck it, Good Fun, right? I sure think so.
It is good to be in Thailand. I am still alive and, apart from these temporary markings and some residual aches and pains, just damn fine, thank you very much.
Exactly one week ago I was checking a big “must do” off my Australian list—slaying a kangaroo after finishing my last full farm shift—while off-roading with a spotlight in tow and an old Merle Haggard ditty blaring. It was damn fine fun, and now, considering the present situation, seems a long way back down the proverbial personal road. Or just yesterday.
This past Saturday morning I got on a plane at Perth International Airport; I was tired and hung-over, yes, but suitably prepared for another savage attack on my adopted Asian homeland. Before midnight that same night, Thailand had clearly gotten the better of me.
After arriving at Phuket airport, I made fast friends with a flock of French tourists, and sorted us a discount mini-bus to town; all was going well, for the time being. After getting dropped a few blocks from my usual haunt—the On On Hotel—I linked up with two confused and frustrated Canadian birds, who were having severe difficulty acquiring adequate accommodation. As usual, my Thai skills immediately found a need to fulfill. Onward. Forward.
Upon learning of my past experience as a resident of Phuket, the fine ladies were eager for all sorts of assistance; I obliged and told them that my usual resting place was just around the corner, and should meet their budget requirements. Excitement was pervasive and thanks duly appropriated, particularly after finding that My Place was exactly what they were looking for.
They went to get settled and cleaned up and I made a beeline for my motorbike rental guy, hoping to catch him before closing-time, and then the large local market, which absolutely never closes. Post-fried chicken, with a full arsenal of Thai whiskey, I was feeling damn fine. I’d slid right back into routine; it was all the same, I was untouchable, yes, yes.
Rocking back up to the On On as my Kiwi hell-raising partner lingered by the entrance, no wrong could be done. It was time to get into the heavy stuff, straight away. Whiskey and Red Bull went down faster than Jenna Jameson, and a few tequila shots were bloody brilliant. We were making quick work, without getting out of hand or turning to Aussie bogans. Respectable fun with slightly raised voices.
Soon enough, the Canadians were back, and thirsty—so we took care of them, of course, as any decent hosts would. Figuring that the modest consumption thus far, coupled with a decent feed and sporadic waters, wouldn’t negatively affect my driving ability, it seemed only natural that I offer these two finely-boned fellow travelers—newcomers to Phuket, just a couple hours in—a sight-seeing ride.
After a bit of reassuring—“I used to live here, for fucksakes, this is my island. I’ve done this hundreds of times. I’m a professional, damnit”—they were enthusiastic.
“Why yes, a tour would be pleasant.” Chica numero uno hopped on behind me, ready for adventure. And off we went. Vamos. Into the Night.
All was well. The lady gripped me tightly as we took a relaxed lap of Phuket Town, then headed across the island, a bit more rapidly, to stare at the mass ugliness of Patong Beach, the Festering Sore. Fun was had and Good Times were going swimmingly; I was a stellar, informative tour guide, and pretty sure a handjob woulda been promptly provided, had I merely made the polite request. I was going a bit fast here and there, of course, but not taking any particularly obscene risks, and my previous “professionalism” assured both myself and Ms. Cute-Smile. My motley variety of whit and charm was in full flourish. All was quite well.
Back at the On On, all was just as sound. My compatriot was entertaining finely and the second Canadian was anxious for a spin, as well. A bit more was eaten and another nip or two taken, before speeding off for the night’s second adventure. Hooray, hooray. No wrong can I do.
And that sojourn was going nearly as well: Kata, Karon, Patong, just another good spin with a hot bird on the back of a bike—innocent good times, being human and enjoying it. And then things hit the fan…
Coming out of Patong, motoring along at a completely reasonable pace, the night took an awful turn for the worse. The narrow, crowded street had me stuck behind a small gray Nissan jalopy, pissed off and wanting for the wind in my face again. Then traffic coming from the other direction suddenly petered out, providing a nice opening around to the right, which I took zealously.
Right as I zipped past the pokey fucker, things changed; road construction was underway and the street had morphed into a multi-level fuckabout. My passing lane, to the right, was a continuation of the same boulevard I’d been humming comfortably along; the lane I needed to get back in, to my left, was suddenly some janky brick higher-tiered crap-circus. Why anyone, particularly in Thailand, would see the need to transform a perfectly suitable road into a brick thoroughfare is totally beyond me. And there was no signage indicating the project underway.
Ever try to take an uneven junction sideways on a bike?—not exactly easy. Not at all easy when that junction you’ve got to surmount is a solid three-inch ledge, comprised of freshly cut bricks, sprinkled with sand…and you’re going 40 kph on a shitty third-world motorbike that was the Last One Left.
Things went sideways fast, no doubt. I’m not sure exactly how I landed, but I know that the Canadian avoided injury (other than two small scrapes, on her knee and hip) while I, like a gentleman, took most of the collision. Bike flying, me skidding off, woman on top as I slammed to the brick edge—face meet pavement.
The half-dozen locals standing nearby being Thai sprang to their feet. “Aih-ya! Mista, you hurt, you hurt! Need go to hospital!” They weren’t fucking around, I knew this was substantial straight away; concrete and brick are unforgiving headmistresses. Severe stinging everywhere, the entire body aflame.
The Canadian was in agreement with the brown folk. “Oh my Gawd, you’re bleeding everywhere. Your eye looks bad. Holy shit!”
I touched my pained brow—it was sliced to fuck-all, opened up like a hot breakfast sausage cut length-wise. I bit down on my chewing gum—it crunched like sand from splintered enamel—and moved my tongue around my mouth, realizing that there was now a major gap in the left-front side of my grin. “Get on the bike. We need to get out of here.”
“Mista, mista, you need go hos-pee-tall. You hurt.”
My rider was in obvious and understandable distress. “Oh. My. Gawd. Whadda we do? You’re hurt!”
“You need to get on the bike and we need to go. If we stay, the cops are gonna turn up soon enough, and that’ll be bad on all fronts.” I’ve heard too many stories about what happens when a westerner has a bike mishap…And I stand by my reaction to this clearly-fucked situation. It was Go Time.
“What the hell!?! You need to go to the hospital now, you’re bleeding all over.” I yanked my shirt over my head and tied it tightly, to soak up the blood. To hell with this frightened jabbering, it was time to be persuasive.
“I understand you’re scared shitless, but you’ve gotta trust me. We need to leave, NOW. This goes from bad to much worse if we don’t leave. I’m fine for now. I’ll get to the hospital as soon as I get you back safely. On. The. Bike.”
And to the locals: “Don’t worry. Me OK. Mai pen rai. I go to hospital soon.”
The ride back to town was a tad uneasy, peppered with lots of “I’m sorry.” And “just go slow.” Somehow I retained my warped sense of humor, and she managed more than one laugh. Twice untimely detours—to avoid police checkpoints at red lights—were in order. But we got back. Safe, sound. Straight to the shower to clean off, a mirror look or two to confirm and survey the damage, a handful of gory pictures, then off to the hospital.
Thai hospitals can be a bit frightening at 11 pm. A crazed little bastard on the table next to me, jacked to the gills, waving his bloody, bandaged arm in my face, screeching, “I mow, maaan.” (I’m fucked up, dude.) Polite, caring staff. Ragged parents with ragged babies. A deathly-looking old fella in the corner, hacking his trachea out. Strange vibrations.
Eight stitches, bandages everywhere, an antibiotic regimen, and some decent painkillers—all for about $30 US.
And now, as the dust has settled and I’ve moved back on to some sort of human schedule, I feel OK. Life is still good. The scars will be good reminders and I’m sure I’ll heal up just fine.
Ya know the craziest shit of all this (other than my significant and wide-ranging personality defects…) is that rugby was what got me into travel and madness and running amok in the first place. I sure as hell wouldn’t be here, or in this condition, if not for the oval—probably middle management at some regional bank, something hideous and awful.
In spite of the pain, it’s still worth it.
Thank you, rugby…and Coach Eric Huss, for everything.
Wouldn’t change a thing, wouldn’t trade my place for anyone else’s. It’s My Life, I live the fuck out of it and own it harder than most of these dumb muppets; though bike accidents do hurt more than a little bit. Oh well…mai pen rai.
Ah, yes, Led Zepplin on the music box, that’s the fucking ticket. Nothing like Good Music to keep the rhythms squared.
After all this down-time and very little writing of any consequence, I have a decent feeling that almost no one in their right mind would keep checking up on my gibberish. Only a mad jack-tard with more faith than sense would keep seeing if I post anything of consequence.
You may be filthy swine, yes, but I do appreciate anyone who has managed to stick through the awful muddle and prolonged silences, hoping for something decent. Every once in a great while…? I’d even like to buy the few respectable ones of you that remain a drink, a proper adult beverage.
In fact, the first one of you dirty cocksuckers (or Good People, if you prefer) to properly identify themselves in the comments section of this post gets a six-pack of good beer the next time we meet.
Name+any acceptable commentary=free beer.
Perhaps one of you has posted something that I’ve missed (I get plenty of junk mail comments from greasy self-serving capitalist types, which I don’t approve, and have led to me viewing any “comment notice” with extreme suspicion), and if so, I’m goddamn sorry as hell. The schedule I operate on and the circles I run in don’t lend themselves to dependability or consistency. Strange hours, Night Psychosis, howling at the moon.
Back when I was posting with regular reliability, I used to get a fair few decent comments…Ah, the Good Ole’ Days…
I remain, thankfully and generously, yrs. in Fear & Loathing…and Spirited Defiance, always.
Play On,
RugbyJoe
PS—“Don’t bite off more than you can chew, there’s things down here the devil himself wouldn’t do.” -Toby Keith, my Bahamian amigo